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fitting a UPVC door,UPVC door installation

Fitting a UPVC Door


1. If you are fitting a UPVC Door measure the width and the height of the new Door (The Sill is 30mm high so add that to the frame height to get the finished height) check this size against the brick work opening before removing the old Door.
2. Check that by removing the existing Door or brickwork you are not compromising the structural integrity of the building. Importantly there is a lintel above the door. (If in doubt consult a qualified person)
3. It is vital for the correct operation of this door that you install the frames squarely, diagonally , vertically and level, failure to do so will cause problems with the operation of the door and may invalidate the manufacturers guarantee.

Please use the correct tools as it’s much easier if you do, along with a helper.


Remove the Door sash from the frame by undoing the hinge screws. Then remove the silicone bead if there is one around the perimeter of the old frame inside and out (Use a Stanley knife). If the frame is a UPVC one undo the frame fixing bolts and remove the bolts and if the plastic anchor sleeve is in place which is likely use a 11mm steel drill bit to drill the old sleeve out, don’t go to the brick work with the drill! Check the frame is not fixed into the head and through the sill (Unlikely)

The old frame needs to be levered out from the front, insert a jemmy / small crowbar on the outside edge of the old door frame, position a rag on the outer edge of the outside brick work so the bar does not damage the outer brick work. Bow the frame and hit the frame inside with a rubber mallet repeat either side and walk the frame out

Note; The old Door may not have been fitted correctly / square so don’t be tempted to use the old plaster line should not be used as fitting guide, by all means pull the new frame back to the plaster but make sure you check that all is plumb and square before fixing. You can chip some of the plaster away to achieve this or fill any resulting gaps at the end.


Make sure there is sufficient space above the Door frame (30mm) for the door sash to be lifted back onto the hinges after the frame has been fitted

Stand the door upright and insert the square spindle shaft into the handle, take the long handle screws and make sue the screw heads are fitted to the inside of the door ( The hinges are always on the inside except on outward opening doors) Tighten the handle screws so the handle is now attached. Lay the new door flat with the hinges facing upwards on a soft surface or on a dust sheet, carefully not to damage it, put a rag around the handle to prevent damaging the handle .Now take the keys (These are fastened to the outside of the frame) and insert barrel and turn anti clockwise and pull the handle down, the door should now open some minor pulling of the frame may be required. Lift the sash to 90 degrees now lift the sash off the hinges by sliding the Door sash along the length of the frame, set it aside so it can’t be damaged.


Set the sill on the brick work and level it with packers remove any old loose mortar and obstruction, use a short level to check, now lift and push the frame into the opening (Make sure you have removed any old sealant and anchor sleeves also that the frame is not upside down or back to front! (The drainage slots should be at the bottom). Run a silicone seal along the up stand on the rear of the sill then sit the frame on the sill in such away so there is an even gap all the way around the frame.

Now check the frame is square and not bowed in the opening, measure the frame diagonally from corner to corner to check that the two measurements are the same. Check for plumpness using a plumb bob or a long 2 metre spirit level. Also measure horizontally top, middle and bottom to see if the frame is bowed. It is essential to ensure that the frame is not bowed or distorted as it will affect the correct operation of the door.

Drill a pilot hole using an 8mm HSS drill in towards the brick work in the frame uprights making sure that holes should be around 150mm from each corner and spaced around 300mm away from the next hole. The holes should be lined up with the brick not the mortar course .Now use a 140mm long 8mm masonry bit and continue drilling into the brick to the depth of the drill bit, caution do not catch the chuck on the frame up stand!

Insert the flat packers either the 5mm or 5mm either side of the hole and insert the grey plastic anchor onto the hole (a tap with the rubber mallet may be required). Then screw in the 140mm long fixing screw, before final tightening apply a dab of silicone sealant under the screw head. It is important to make sure that you don’t bow the frame when tightening the screw, the packers should be nipped tight, check the frame width to ensure it has not been bowed.

Before you drill each new hole check the level of the sill and add / remove packers as necessary to ensure square ness, the frame should be continually checked for plumb ness etc as you fit it there will be approx 3 fixings per side. If you have removed the sash now re-hang it by lifting it back onto the hinges.


Now screw the door down on to the sill in 4 places through the bottom of the outer frame keeping the screws 150mm away from the corners.

Final check for frame square ness use the level and measure the frame diagonally from corner to corner.


Note this operation is essential for the correct operation and ongoing performance of the Door. The correct placement of the plastic packers will ensued that the weight of the glass / panel is optimised and will not make the door drop.

Remove the glazing beads thee are the strips of plastic that hold the glass / panel in place, carefully insert a flat edge tool under the front lip of the bead on the vertical section, move along the length lifting it out with your fingers. It helps to have someone push the glass / panel away from the bead whilst you are doing this. Repeat on the other vertical section and then next take away the bottom bead, finally remove the top bead, be ready to catch it if it falls inwards slightly. Remove the beads and place safely.

See Place equally sized packers in positions A,B & C between the glass / panel and the plastic underneath the glass / panel called the glazing rebate, at this point the door sash may appear out of shape but by placing an identical set of packers at the position marked D the door will begin to level up, check the top of the leaf with a level. When you are happy with the position and numbers of packers you need to silicone the base packers in place to prevent their future movement. The purpose of toe and heeling the glass / panel is to equally distribute the weight of the glass / panel across the door hinges and away from the lock side, ideally the glass / panel should not be touching the glazing rebate at the bottom of the lock side of the Door. It is ‘’nipped’’ the diagonal corners bottom hinge side to top lock corner. Use small packers to shim the Door sash at points A, B, C & D as required if the top of the sash is not level.

Replace the glazing beads in the order they were removed.


Now close the doors sash if it does not latch smoothly you have the option of adjusting the door hinges (Refer to instructions in the hinge cover box). When you have adjusted the hinges so the latches smoothly and easily lift the door handle upwards this engages the locking claws and roller cams in the process the black rubber gaskets are compressed which seals the door. If you feel the operation of the handle is stiff you can use a 4mm allen key to adjust the compression cams at the top and bottom of the door lock, these will alter the amount of gasket compression

A useful tip if the door lock operates smoothly when it is open but is difficult when closed it is fouling something, close the door and use a pencil to mark the coverage of the door sash on to the frame open and see it is even top to bottom, if it is uneven adjust the opposing nearest hinge in or out to even it


The perimeter seal is a weatherproof seal and also allows the door to expand and contract slightly with the seasons and changing temperatures. Cut the nozzle straight and the desired gap and gently squeeze the trigger and push forward along the gap. Note; It is important not to seal the gap between the bottom of the door frame and the top of the outside sill, this is a drainage path and needs to remain open. The Door should be sealed on the inside and any gaps made good.

Large gaps can be filled with an expanding foam (Not supplied) but be aware if used in excess they can lead to the frame being bowed and affect the door operation. A little foam goes along way so use sparingly.

You have fitted your UPVC Door! Replacement keys can be cut at virtually any lock smiths. A once yearly squirt of WD40 into the lock barrel and on the moving parts is required to prevent premature failure. Never force a door handle if the door locks will not engage correctly it is probable that the packers used for toe & heeling were not fixed in place with silicone and have moved causing the door to drop and affect the lock operation.

U-Fit U-Fit Unit 1, Boston Pl, Coventry,

Tel: 02476 686682
Fax: 024 7663 8779

24 Hour Freephone: 0800 389 0595


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